Bohada- A Sacred Tradition ..

Human and Nature .. Two Words .. multidimensional Entities..

The amalgamation of both is what we call as coexistence ..respecting each other. This Coexistence gave birth to some beautiful traditions .. Not only in India but to the whole world. The word Tradition is a series of Celebrating, Respecting, Conserving and carrying forward what is sacred and Important to exist. Versatility of Traditions is a blooming and vibrant part of Indian culture and when it comes to tribes of India it is almost inevitable ..

The list of number of Adivasi tribes in India is more that 1000 . This includes their spreads Pan India including Andaman Nicobar and other Indian Islands. In each Tribe the rules are set about one's role in the community, Work , Worships , Social Standings, Celebrations , Marriages , Resolving disputes to clothing, food etc. the rules are set according to the trend followed by their Ancestors.

Maharashtra and its Tribes are no exceptions for this. Very very firm belief in their traditional practices which are nature centric. Specific to the earths cycle of Sunrise to Sunset , season all is set . All has discipline. Festivities are just sheer joy .. and Religion is Nature.. God is Nature.. Food is Nature .. life is Nature.. Enjoyed to the Core . Different Casts of Tribes  have their festivals depending upon their Customs and Regions. But the Most commonly celebrated Festival in tribes of areas in Mokhada, Thane, Nasik is Called as Bohada.. Means Processions

Bohada is a Mask Festival celebrated between Hanuman Jayanti and Gudi padwa, It is celebrated to honour and to respect Village Goddess (Gav Devi or Gram Devta). 

The Divine power who takes care and Shade her love on people living in these villages. There are 7-8 famous Bohada Festival arranged and celebrated in this region. Team consist of Village head and other respected person from area decide on day of celebration and its proceedings of this three days and whole night long festival. The one I attended was Bohada Of Poyshet .




There are some famous Bohadas in this area are Mokhada where the first Bohada was performed , Kogda Village in Kardhan, Vehel Pada, Bharsat, Jawhar, Kokada and Poyshet . Most of the Bohadas of three days long, the preparation for this though starts 8 days before. Day one of Festival is Called as Chota (Small) Bohada , Day two Dhakta ( Young )Bohada and day three is called as Motha (Big/ Large) Bohada which is last day of Festival. It starts with worshipping the goddess and ends with the big Processions. All bohadas are crowed pullers . Huge numbers of people gather for these Festivities.

The outline of all Bohada is almost similar , may be one or two things differ. like most locations seven days before Bohada, Rice is grown in small basket and once it grows into tiny grasses they are offered to the goddess. The festivities begin on this day., At Poyshet I even saw a Mukhavata (Face Mask) of Goddess worshiped on first day . Traditionally both are at designated Family of the village who worship these holy belongings.

The main feature of bohada are the Traditional masks. They are traditional make by selected craftsman of villages and are a priced possessions of the house. They are with family from generations. All masks are made from Natural materials like Wood, Wood pulps and other natural materials. Even the paints use to decorate these masks are natural dyes. Every year the Mask is decorated and used for Procession. 

Mask used for Bohada are based on Trible  concept of living life and the once who protects them , one who resource  their daily needs, the one they think is sacred .. even some demons are also depicted in these masks. There are more than 50 types of Masks are designed and used during Bohada. Characters like Ganapati, Shiv, Khanderaya, Saraswati, Lakhshmi, Bhairoba , Niloba . Some real life characters like Gavlan ( Milk Lady), Shephard Lady are also portraited . Characters like Kaurav  , Ravna, Bakasur, Bhim then animal masks like Tiger, Sinva (Lion) are also incorporated. 

 
The performances given during bohada are based on stories from Purana , Killing of evil , stories of hunting etc. these stories are passed from generation to generation. The popular one in Bhim and Bakasur, Shivaji Maharaj'S victory stories. The head of the Family actually passes the tradition  of Bohada festivities to young generation.

Having such a Traditional , Massive and grand festivity it is obvious that its a Crowed puller. Three days are like a big funfair. The place of Bohada is full with sweets, savoury food stalls , Day to day essential goods like pot , pans may be some vegetables , grains, Fancy jewellery and what not. The atmosphere is just so vibrant with children running all along, young ones walking in groups chatting loudly , giggling . and the the sound of traditional instrument called Sambal and Pepeti (Sehenai sort of) takes attention of the fair and all gather to the main place mostly a Temple of Gamdevi where the head of the village brings Traditional offerings of Newly grown rice and Kalash. The procession starts from village head's house till Temple followed by mob gathered for Bohada. Some people get possessed  by the sound of Sambal (Angat Devi Yete) and it is even said that some times these possessed people also give answers to the Problems asked. 

                            

Once village head makes offerings to gram devta the mask festival begins. People start procession in pre-decided order wearing there masks perform on the street. Actually path of Start and end point of Procession is decided . The artist performs ones act in light of Fire torch, Kandil (Fire lamp). Crowed cheers each and every Artist from start to end. By the next morning  when the last Mask performance is done the Bohada Ends.

    

We were planning to visit Bohada for quite some time. Was little concerned as its a whole night event. But ever since we reached there we became part of it and time just flies. Villagers came forward and gave us information about there traditions , Bohada. We had a lovely chit chat about there life shared few of our life. fun Interaction with few rounds of Tea of course. We roamed whole bohada with list of performances and photographing them , photographing our self with them. 

Something I love doing .. Interacting with people.  Women were little hesitant in the beginning  but it went smooth after few conversations.  

 

Its just one of the kind and whole night long cultural and tradition drenched event. A must experience one. 

Looking forward to visit on again may be some different place but Visit for Sure .

गुलजारांची देवडी (ड्योढी )

किताबोंसे कभी गुजरे तो यू किर्दार मिलते है
गये वक्तोंकी ड्योढी मे खडे कुछ यार मिलते है |

गुलजार म्हणतात त्याप्रमाणेत्यांचे सगळे कीरदार कधी आपल्यात सामावून जातात कळत नाही ... एक एक किरदार ईतक साध त्यांची गोष्ट तीच तुमची आमची अस वाटत असत ... पण गोष्ट संपता संपता कळत ते त्याच वेगळेपण... प्रत्याकाचा असलेला तो मउ हळवा कोपरा प्रत्येक किरदाराप्रमाणे बेगळा ...पण ... अरे अस तर आपल्यालाही वाटत ना  असा विचार करायला लावणारा..

ते किरदार माणूस असेल किंवा आणि दुसरा कुठला जिव ... भावनेची नाळ एकच .... ति गुलजार जाणतात ... ते लिहीत जातात आणि आपण त्या मोहजालात सापडतो .... प्रत्येक किरदार वाचता वाचता जगतो , त्यांच्या बरोबर हसतो आणि प्रसंगी डोळे ही टिपतो ... गुलजारांची देवडी अशीच गजबजलेली राहो .. त्यांच्यासाठी आणि आपल्यासाठी सुध्दा.

Oooossuummm Odisha

Ooooossssuuummm Odisha

Humble, Honest , Spectacular and Sacred state of Incredible India,

You ask for Wild Life, Nature, Culture, Architecture, Hermitage , History, Food .. Odisha reply with its natural humbleness and simplicity. The spread you get to enjoy is spectacular.

Me and my travel buddies as always started our journey with lots of Curiosity and were ready to embrace what present surprises this state has in Store for Us.

After enjoying Indian Railways "Hospitality" for almost 48 hours (Mumbai- Bhubaneshwar) we reached to B'shwar early Morning. The first thing we do after freshening up was to look for Breakfast, Surprisingly we god a lovely South Indian Spread near out Hotel and luckily our Gadiwala aka Driver timely informed us that its going to be a long Journey till our Next destination i. e. Bhitarkanika. So we took the Opportunity to Stuff more of what was available.

First stop En route Bhitarkanika was Centuries old Temple Complex of Lingaraja. Its in the vicinity of Bhubaneshwar. Lingaraja temple is from 11th Century though some says its there since 7th century. Its a Beautiful Temple having Main Temple where  ShivLingam is placed with two halls namely Natya Mandia and Bhog Mandapa. Its a Beautiful temple of Typical Odisha Architecture.

Visit to  Lingaraja Temple gave us positive start for our Odisha Exploration. Then we started towards Bitharkanika Sanctuary and National Park.

As we approached to our stay to Kendrapada we saw small procession where all villagers were following few males were Carrying some idol like things, dancing on drums and Manjira beats. We also Joined them and it goes without saying we were followed by children with there mischievous faces and comments for us. They were celebrating Lord Kartikeya's festivity followed by Kumar Pournima. That is the only information I could gather from locals as we were not able to understand there Local Language and they couldn't understand Ours. But this language inequality was not barrier for any of us to enjoy the festive Fun.

By lunch time we reached Estuarine Tourist Hut , Kendrapada for our stay while exploring Bitarkanika. They served us simple humble Odisi food Karela bhaja, Dalma, Begun Bhaja and of cource Lots of local rice and vegetables. They also served us delicious chutneys and pickles using local ingredients. Elephant Fruit Chutney was a pleasant and delicious surprise for me. So in all it was a Great beginning for Bitarkanika.  After lunch our hotel manager took us to the village around. 

We were as usual followed, guided and giggled upon our interactions by Villagers.  The village was and typical example of Oriya Culture. Houses were made using mud, Bamboo while roofs were made of dried hey stags and coconut leafs. Walls were painted with simpler drawings like bullocks, peacocks, human. What I could notice was the cleanliness around the Villages maintained throughout . I hope Over tourism will not ruin its beauty. Walking and exploring we reached to the small jetty where local catch there fairies for travel from one island to other. It is also a sunset point for tourist. Sunset is my favourite time of the day. Sunset followed by delicious dinner at hotel was a perfect end for day one.

Early morning we got ready for our Boat Ride in Bitarkanika National Park. After finishing formalities as our boat enters the waterways made through rich and luscious Mangroves. Within few minutes of our boat ride we saw a baby of Salt water Crocodile basking on the bank and withing few meters there was a Huge Crocodile made its appearance on riverbank from nearby grassland. It was one of the adult male Crocodile from Bitharkanika. We also saw Water Monitor Lizards laying on Bank. Bitharkanika is a Ideal place to do birding of mangrove birds like Black Caped Kingfisher. Typical to the mangrove area this is a beautiful bird with usual kingfisher type beak and blue color having Black mark on Cape(Head).

After this great start we saw varieties of kingfishers like Rudy, Stork billed, Common, Small, White throat and My favorite Pied kingfisher.  Variety of waders can be found here. Few of the birds we saw are Red Shanks, Eurasian Curlews, Pond Herons, Purple herons, Grey herons, Red wattled Lapwings, Sandpipers, Plovers and many more. Have attached a link of actual Flora and Fauna list by our Camp organisers of Oiko Essence .

 In between Ride we got down for a small walk in Mangrove patch. It was a pleasant walk and the flora around was mixed like mangrove varieties, small shrubs , trees like acacia. We saw a huge roosting site of Open Billed storks. We also spotted waders like black winged Stilts along with there Babies. It was a ideal site to do photography. We also went to a small but busy dock while returning. As the sun started setting it was time to return to our Stay for lovely dinner and discussion withing group members about days experience. Sunsets, especially when you are sailing through open waters.

Next day after breakfast we started for Shri Jagganath Puri, one of a kind temple of brothers and sister namely lord Krishna, lord Balarama and sister Subhadra. Our this day turned out to be special when you came to know about Sri. Maga Nayak . 

He is an expert of Odishas hermitage art of Pothicitra .Art of making painting on dry leaves  Cotton Cloth and even on Tasser Silk piece using only vegetable or Natural Colors. Guru Maga Nayak is considered as Pioneer of Pothichita. He still practice and also teaches this Beautiful Art form. Charecters or events of Indian Mythology or Purana are carved on Dry palm leaf and then procedded with age old techniques and Painted.

 Very humbly he sat with us for some friendly chatting where we came to know information of this art forms along with small demo serious. This man is blessed with Magical Hands. If you happen to visit Puri do spare one or two hours to the Heritage town of Raghurajpur and Nayak Patna. You will be amazed to the Charcoal painting and other such Art form. We obviously did shopping of few Art pieces and left for Puri to seek Blessings of Lord Jagganath.

It was almost an evening time as we reached Puri. This town is an important Pilgrimage place where you feel the presence of deity in its Soul. Jagannat Puri is one of the important religious place of Char Dham Yatra. The Historical religiously important and globally recognized Rath Yatra (Chariot Festival) happens Here. The Idols of Lord Krishna, Balaram and Subhadra are carved in Wood and Idol of Jagganath is replaced every twelve or Nineteen Years. There are many Small temples in Mandir Complex. Do take the prasad you get here its a sweet as good Blessings . Late Night we reached Konark where we were looking forwards to take the first Ray of Sun in India.

Barley sleeping for 3-4 hrs we started at 4.30 am for Konrak Beach to whiteness the first Sunrise in India. To our surprise whole beach was full with tourists busy taking Selfies with Blank Sky and Sea Waves. Soon as eastern sky started changing into subtle shades of red and was getting darker as Sun started immersing from that beautiful Sky. 

We all cheered to the first glimpse of Sun. I really enjoyed photographing this Sunrise event as this is very Rare occasion for me to wake up So early. Well, after some strolling on beach we went back for Typical Odia Breakfast of Chakuli (almost like Uttapam) and Dalma. Now after few rounds of Chakulis we were set to Visit the The SUN TEMPLE.

One of gems of India's rich Cultural, Historical, Architectural and Engineering monument is The SUN TEMPLE. The thought of making something like this is totally unimaginable.  

As you enter the Complex the huge Nata Mandir welcomes you with its Beautiful Pillars carved with Ancient figures, Horses, Lions, Navagrahas etc. The there is The SUN TEMPLE built by King Narasimha I , in 13th century. It took almost 12 years and few hundreds of Artisans.

It is built in the Shape of Chariot of Lord Sun which has 24 wheels. each Wheel signifies 24 hrs of the day.  On each wheel there are Carvings of symbolic Queen who is shown doing all rituals During the different hours of day.. Right from waking up, doing morning rituals, Worshiping, etc. 

This Whole Sun Chariot is pulled by seven huge Horses carved in Sandstone. Right from the Location to its final cared stone whole thing is a Masterpiece. The One who thought the one who designed and those who executed must be gods own people.

Odisha in last two days has made feel Culturally rich and lucky to be a witness of its gob smacking heritage. Fully drenched in amazing Heritage Odisha , it was time to get back to the business. Lake Chilika was waiting for us to show its wonderful spread of natural beauty, Culture, Flora n Fauna.So now we all Set for Mangalajodi. 

  

By lateafternoon we reached out Manglajodi Eco Tourism Camp our Stay for Chilika Lake. Evening was of course our favourite activity of strolling around Village and interacting with Local. Odisha being a Coastal state has abundance variety of sea food. The local fishmongers were happy to show us there fresh Catch.

Undoubtedly we were  we were centre of Attraction for local and also a subjects to make fun in there Local Language. After Wonderful 

Dinner we slept early as we were suppose to start our Day very Early for Lake Chilika.

No matter how good are your R &D skill , some places just through the curve Ball and take a wicket of your Perception. My wicket was taken by the Beautiful Sunrise while entering Chilika lake. This lake is a Paradise for Waders and Photographers. The credit to photography must go to those small boats of Forest department. Their skillful men silently take you through waters of Chilika. Though it was not "The Birding Season"  our Birding list was quite lengthy. 

At Lake Chilika you being in the open waters you can actually get some space to click your pictures according to the Day light. One more thing I want to mention is almost all the ponds in Odisha you will see White or Red lotus(Water Lily). Its a beautiful sight. Lake Chilika is no different.. Even an average Mobile camera takes amazing pictures.

Being a vast wetland it attracts many migratory birds. We could see Northern Pin tails, Brown headed Lapwing, Wood sandpiper, Whiskered Tern, Red Crested Pochard, open billed Storks to name the few.Besides them purple Moorhen, sandpipers, Great egrets, Wagtails, Jacanas, pond herons and Kingfishers were spotted by us. 

Some of my favorite shots of Black winged Stilts and Open Billed storks are from Mangalajodi. As sun started setting the whole Lake was covered by Magical light along with humming sounds of hundreds of buffaloes returning home. 

We could see those hundred of buffaloes making

there way through marshy muddy waters .

 Mangalajodi turned out to be one the pleasant surprises of our Odisha Camp. With beautiful memories of great siting, Amazing landscaping, Delicious food, Full memory cards and above all that calm and happy Minds we wave Bye to Mangalajodi.

While returning to Bhubaneshwar we visited the famous Nandan Kanan Zoo. Its really a must visit spot. Variety of tigers like Royal Bengal ,White Tigers etc along with other wild mammals can be seen kept in Captivity according to there favorable habitat. It was a well spent Evening. Next day morning we were set to enjoy hospitality of Indian railways by Konark Express.

If I sum up my Odisha visit it will be like a perfectly balanced old Traditional delicacy which has

Bitterness of delicious Karela Bhaja to one of a kind sweetness of Chenna Poda .. this state has it all,

Few simple but Amazing delicacies, Naturally beautiful landscapes, huge water bodies like Chilika lake, Rich Herritage like Konark Sun Temple and Blessings of Shri Jagganath Puri ...

Its a experience to be experienced..

Baripada .. Story of Transformation

If you want to know any about country, you need to meet it's local people, have there food  be a part of there Celebration. Travelling gives you that opportunity and travelling is one  I am good at. Mention of the love for Travel here has a great significance. This has set me on rather advanturous Local Travel to a Small Adivasi Village Called Baripada.. an interiour village in Nandurbar District , Maharashtra.

Baripada is a small village located on the border of Maharashtra and Gujarat, about 400 km from Mumbai.Effect of Deforestation could be clearly seen in this area. Once a lush green area was now facing problems of availability of Food, Water etc. It was almost a drought like situation in the area. But nothing is Impossible if you are ready to do hardwork . Well in case of Baripada determination and hardwork of Shri. Chaitram Pawar and his team of dedicated workers have brought the transformation. The drought like area has literally transformed into think forest cover. 



With the help of villagers Forest Protection Committee (FPC)  was formed . Villagers were the members of the committee and it was rotated every year so that each and every family in village will get its stake . A decision was taken to protect 450 hectares of land and a contribution of Rs 3 per home was collected.Punishments were given for cutting trees and those who took steps for protection were awarded. It was decided that nobody from the village or outside the village would be allowed to enter the forest with a bullock cart for any reason. Two most elderly persons would work as a watchmen and report to FPC. 50 acres of the forest land was set aside for grazing. During winter, villagers were allowed to use dry wood for fuel requirements.


One more intresting activity has started during this process was to held a Competition of Locally grown Vegitables Called as वनभाजी महोत्सव /Vanbhaji Mohotsav. This competition now takes place every year in first or second week of October.  Women in baripada and another surrounding area showcase a lovely spreads of seasonal vegetables grown in forest naturally. 

They are marked on various scales, like Name of vegitable, Its medicinal property, method of cooking and yes personal and Family hygine Habbits too.  Team FPC requested us to be a Judge of the competition... 

Felt Amazed and trapped by what came across to me .. It had 43.. Yes forty three vegitables prepared and displayed beautifully .  They have recorded list of 70 variety of Vegitables here, More than 90% of the spread was trip if mystryland for me. Never heard, never tasted and never immagined delocousies were amongst them. 

We had vegitable made from Honeycomb, Extreemly Bitter root call " Kadu Karand"( You need to find this, peel it ., clean it and Keep in Running Water Stream for 2 days before prepping it ) , Amla, and Variety of Berries and leafy vegitables .. All Awesome. 

Thanks to the team of Mr. Pawar and his teams systematic guideline for Judging the competetion , It made our Task of Judging bit easy.  

In all what I witnessed the celebration of simple life...Our Adivadis are so full of life... and have there unique adaption to the nature...Of course they consider themselves as soils son...धरतीची लेकर.. I was fortunate to be a part of there वनभाजी महोत्सव. It is the team effort that this is the 12th year that they are conducting this activity.... Looking forward to be a part of this for many more years .